Sewing-machine for finishing button-hole pieces



(No Model.) -3 Sheets-Sheet 1.

. J. REESE. SEWING MAGHINE FOR FINISHING BUTTON HOLE PIECES. No.404,863. 4 Patented June 11, 1889.

a o JZQLZAW fi w,

v gg; I

3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

333303. SEWING MACHINE 303 FINISHING BUTTON HOLE PIECES. No. 401,863.

Patented June 11, 1889.

lllll Jkrz/fleeee,

N PETERS. Plmln-Lilhogmpher. Walhmgtun. DCv

(.No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

J. REF-OE. V SEWING MACHINE FOR FINISHING BUTTON HOLE PIECES. .No.404,863. PatentedJuna 11, 1889.

ray-4.

N FETERa PhDImLiIhOgmPImr. Washington. D. c.

' UNITED STATES PATENT FFICE.

JOHN REECE, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

SEWING- MACHINE FOR FINISHING BUTTON-HOLE PIECES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 404,863, dated June 11,1889.

Application filed November 1, 1888. Serial No. 289,758. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

. the needle may enter and its point emerge from the same side of thematerial to thereby produce what is called a blind stitch.

The machine herein to be described shows my invention as adapted tostitch down what is known as thrums in the production of button-holes inbutton-pieces for boots or shoes, the machine being adapted to producethe stitch and to secure the thrums in the method especially describedin United States Patent No. 380,731.

My invention consists in the combination, with a grooved or slottedthroat-plate, a reciprocating bender to bend the material into thegroove or slot of the throat-plate, and an eye-pointed needle andcomplemental stitchforming mechanism, of devices to reciprocate theneedle in the direction of its length and transversely to the saidgroove or slot,and devices to impart to the needle a lateral mo tion inopposite directions in a plane substantially at right angles to thebender-actuating plane at each alternate thrust, and feed ing mechanismacting to move the material in the direction of the needles length; alsothe combination, with an eye-pointed needle, complemental stitch-formingmechanism, and a bender, of a slotted throat-plate with which the benderco-operates to bend the material prior to the formation of each stitch,a needle-guide and devices to vibrate it in a plane substantially atright angles to the needle-actuating plane to prevent the point of theneedle glancing from the material, and feeding mechanism to operatesubstantially as will be described.

Other features of my invention will be described in the specificationand claimed in claims at the end thereof.

Figure 1 is a side elevation, with the bedplate broken out, of asewing-machine embodying my invention; Fig. 2, an under side viewthereof; Fig. 3, a partial section in the line 00, Fig. 2. Fig. l is asection below the line 00, Fig. 1. Fig. 5 is a View of the lefthand endof the machine shown in Fig. 4, with the cover-plate removed. Figs. 6 toS, inclusive, are elevations showing the needle and its guide indifferent positions with relation to the'throat. view, enlarged, of thebed-plate, feed-bar, and the needle and its guide with a part of thethroat. Fig. 10 is a like view with the needle swung aside to enter thematerial at the op posite side of the stay-cord and thrum ends. Fig. 11is a sectionin the line 00 Fig. 9. Fig. 12 is a detail to be referredto; and Fig. 13, a side elevation of the arm e and swivel shoe or stud.

The bed-plate A, having the overhanging arm A, is and may be of usual orsuitable shape to support the working parts.

The main shaft A driven in any usual manner, has an eccentric, as Awhich, through an eccentric-strap and band A vibrates the lever Apivoted at A, the forward end of the said lever engagingablOckA fastuponthe benderbar A to the lower end of which is secured the bender A",a spring, as A resting at one end of the said block and at its other endagainst the frame work, normally acting to throw down the saidbender-bar, the point to which the said bender may descend being,however, determined by an adjusting device A (Shown as a nut screwedupon the threaded upper end of the said bender-bar.) The lower the pointto which the bender descends into the groove a of the throat a, securedto the bedplate by the screws a the more abrupt the bend in the materialto be stitched and the deeper the stitch into the said material. Theoverhanging arm A guides, in usual manner, the bar B of the presser-footB, it being normally depressed by a spring B The shaft A has on it a camB which actuates the takeup lever B pivoted at B the outer end of thesaid bar (see Fig. 2) having an eye through which is extended theneedle-thread a between the usual tension device a and the eye of thereciprocating eye-pointed needle a secured'to the needle-bar a shown ashorizon- Fig. 9 is a top or plan tally placed and as having its hearingsin a yoke a mounted on pivot-points a" a (see Figs. 2 and 3) parallel tothe needle-bar. The needle-bar has a collar provided with a stud 2,which is embraced by a link 0, the opposite end of which is pivoted on acrank-pin I), projecting from a disk b secured to the front end of theshaft A. The needle throat-plate a slotted longitudinally at its underside, (see Figs. 3 and 11,) and in the said slot is pivoted theneedle-guide h, the pivot being marked Z)". The needle-guide Z), theupturned acting end of which is shown in section in Figs. (5 to 8 and intop view in Figs. 9 and 11, is beveled at one side, as at 3, and thesaid guide is made to rise and fall in a slot in the bottom of thegroove to of the throat-plate a by means of the camshaped periphery ofthe disk I) referred to, the said cam-surface acting, as herein shown,upon a spring 5, connected by a pin 6 to a spring-arm S adjustablysecured by a screw 9 to a stand 10 of the frame-work, the position ofthe tree end of the said spring being adjustable by or through anadjusting-screw st, screwed into the arm 8.

The free end of the arm 8 (see Fig. is extended under the needle-guideIf, so that the said needle-guide is raised from the position Fig. 8into the position Fig. (i. As the point of the needle a commences tomove toward the material, the said needle-guide, by

the time that the point of the needle is about to enter the bentmaterial, (shown only in Fig. 7,) presents its beveled face 3 (see Fig.(3) close to the line of travel of the needlepoint, so that the upperedge of the guide touches the needle point just as it is to enter thematerial, thus holding or hearing up the point of the needle as itenters the material, thus obviating all liability of the needle toglance as the point of the needle meets the conv :xed surface of thebent material, which in the present machine is supposed to be leather.The guide Z) is gradually lowered from its position Fig. 7 into theposition Fig. 8 as the needle is moved into the material, the upper edgeof the guide renn'tining in contact: with the needle until the latterenters the material sufficiently to prevent the needle from glancing.

The loop of needle-thread thrown out from the eye of the needle as itemerges from the same side of the material at which it entered iscaught, as herein shown, by the point of a shuttle e, having a bobbin 0rotated in a circular race by a driver at the upper end of a shaft c,mounted in bearings A, forming part of the framin g, the said shaft atits lower end having secured to it a disk c, having a crank-pin 10carried by a block 0 fitted in a slot 12 of the disk This pin isextended through and made adjustable in a slot 13 of thesliuttle-actuating lever slotted at 14- to both vibrate and slide on ablock 15 held in place by a screw 16, the rear end of the said leverbeing jointed by a erank-stinl 17, extended from a disk. U at the lowerend of a shaft having its bearings in a bracket U attached to the underside or the bed plate, the said shaft (J being provided at its upper endwith a bevel-gear (l, which is engaged and rotated by a bevel-gear 11'fast on the shaft A The feed-bar having the usual serrated surface toengage the material, is oil the four-motion class, and derives itsmotion in usual manner from two cams on the shaft A immediately back ofthe disk W.

The shuttle-cover or slide plate d", as best shown in Figs. and 4, hasattached to it a thrum-einl-gathering plate d5, having edges or surfacesherein shown as converging, the said edges or surfaces being hereinrepresented as formed by raising or turning up the metal of the plate,thus forn'iing a trough or guide with converging lips 18, the said lipsservingto act upon and sweep the thrum ends toward and in line with theusual stay-cord at the under side of the material, the latter restingupon the said spring-plate, so that the said thrum ends collected alongside of the sta y-cord may be overstitched by the threads carried by theneedle and shuttle. The thrum-'gatherm thus made as a spring-plate actsuniformly to gather the thrum ends, notwithstanding the up-and-downmovement of the material, due not only to the action of the bender, butalso to the action of the feed in feeding the material. Herein theneedle enters the material bent under the bender first at one and thenat the other side of the stay-cord and the thrum ends collectedalongside ot' the said cord.

To enable the needle carried by the horizontal reciprocating needle-barto penetrate the material in this manner at opposite sides of thestay-cord and thrum ends, the needlebar, in addition to its movements ofreciprocation, also has to be moved laterally, and this is easilyaccomplished, owing to the fact that the yoke a, in which theneedle-l;)ar slides, is pivoted, as described. This yoke a (see Fig. 2)has connected to it one end 013' a link a, the connection being by ablock and nuts, as 19, on the screw-t]ireaded end oi the rod, so thatthe effective length oi. the rod maybe altered as desired. This link atits inner-end (see the detail, Fig. 12) has a block or eye whichembraces a stud of a T-sha nwl block 21., which enters a correspondinglyshaped groove in an arm 0, pivoted near its upper end, as at c, andhaving near its lower free end a swivcled shoe or stud 22, which ontersthe grooves of the double-grooved switchcam 6 common to the \Vhceler &'Wilson button-hole machine, the said cam acting to reciprocate the link(0* in such manner as to move the needle-barlaterall y, so that the poii1 t of the needle enters the material at alternate thrusts at oppositesides, the stay-cord and thrum ends making astiteh suchas described inthe said patent.

If it should be desired to employ the machine described for stitchi nstraw-ln'aid, then loo TlO

the block 21 willbe adjusted into such position that the switch-cam willnot reciprocate the said link a.

By adjusting the stud 10 in the slot 13 the speed of rotation of theshuttle may be more or less accelerated.

In this present application the needle enters the material at eachthrust, but at opposite sides of the stay-cord and thrum ends, thusmaking a cross-stitch to cross over the stay-cord and thrum ends andbind them down upon the back or rear side of the material; but inanother application, Serial No. 2l8,827,filed by me on the 5th day ofSeptember, 1887, I have shown and described a feed ing device to engagethe material, an eyepointed needle and devices to move the said feedingmechanism and needle to form an overseaming or zigzag stitch, the saiddevices being combined with a work-holder, and a guide-block having alongitudinal groove or recess at right angles to the plane in which theneedle reciprocates, the said parts cooperating to form a stitch in thebent portion of the material and then outside the material, to thus bindthe thrum ends to the stay-cord; and so, also, in an application, SerialNo.

286,327, I have shown similar devices to those employed in applicationSerial No. 248,827, modified, however, by placing the needle andneedle-bar in a horizontal plane, the complemental stitch formingmechanism being shown as a circularly-moving shuttle. Herein I do notclaim anything shown in the said applications Nos. 286,327 or 248,827.

The throat a has a pin n, under which the needle a reciprocates, thesaid pin acting to prevent the guide Z2 from unduly raising the needle.

It is obvious that my invention herein described would be the same werethe material moved laterally rather than the needle-bar.

I claim- 1. In combination, the grooved or slotted throat-plate, areciprocating bender to bend the material into the said groove or slot,an eye-pointed needle and complemental stitchforming mechanism, devicesto reciprocate the needle in the direction of its length andtransversely to the said groove or slot, and devices to impart to theneedle a lateral motion in opposite directions at each alternate thrust,or in a plane substantially at right angles to the bender-actuatingplane, and a feeding mechanism acting in the direction of the needleslength, substantially as described.

2. In a sewing-machine, an eye-pointed reciprocating needle, complemental stitch-forming mechanism, a bender, and a throat-plateco-operating therewith to bend the material prior to the formation ofeach stitch, combined with a needle-guide and devices to vibrate it in aplane substantially at right angles to the needle-actuating plane toprevent the point of the needle glancing from the material, and feedingmechanism, substantially as described.

3. A grooved or slotted throat-plate, and a reciprocating bender to bendthe material between it and the said throat-plate, combined with feedingmechanism, a needle-bar, an eye pointed needle and complementalstitch-forming mechanism, and laterally-movable bearings in which saidneedle-bar reciprocates, whereby the needle of the stitchformingmechanism at one thrust is enabled to penetrate a bent portion of thematerial held between the bender and throat-plate, and at another thrustto enter said material at a distance from the preceding stitch in thedirection of the bend in the material, substantially as described.

4. The needle-bar, its eye-pointed needle, and complementalstitch-forming mechanism, the pivoted yoke in which the needlebar hasits bearings, devices to reciprocate the needle-bar, and devices tovibrate the said yoke, combined with a throat plate grooved or slottedtransversely to the path of reciprocation of the needle, a bender, anddevices to actuate it, whereby the said bender forces the material intosaid groove or slot at right angles to the needle-actuating plane andfeeding mechanism, substantially as described.

5. In a sewing-machine, a grooved or slotted throat-plate, a needle, andcomplemental stitch-forming mechanism, devices for moving the needle ina path transverse to said groove or slot, and devices to impart to it alateral motion in opposite directions at each alternate thrust in aplane substantially at right angles to the bender-actuating plane, and abender, and devices to reciprocate it to bend or press the material intothe groove or slot of said throat-plate, combined with aspring-supported or yielding thrum-gatherer and feeding mechanism,substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

JOHN REECE.

Witnesses:

J AS. I1. CHURCHILL, G. \V. GREGORY.

IIO

